Auto Service Professional

DEC 2018

Magazine for the auto service professional

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22 A S P D e c e m b e r 2 018 T e c h s H e l p i n g T e c h s connector and very carefully examine the so- lenoid connector at the starter to see if there is plastic flashing molded to the male terminal. e plastic flashing acts as insulation and the par- tially covered terminal prevents good contact to the female terminal. e plastic flashing can be removed with a sharp tool (we used a razor blade). Make sure to check the female terminal tension for the circuit 6 connector because the male terminal with the flashing may have spread the terminal. Brian Carruth Harvest City Car care PRE-OIL TO AVOID A DISASTER Once in a while, we have customers who bring their vehicles into the shop with what turns out to be a major engine problem. e cause is com- monly a lack of proper maintenance, involving a lack of oil change, running the engine with critically low oil level, engine overheating that resulted in a cracked cylinder head, warped head, warped block deck, or cracked block, or possibly coolant migration into the cylinders that resulted in a hydraulic lock, bending con- necting rods and possibly breaking pistons, or a timing belt that failed because it was never changed, with the customer ignoring the own- er's manual recommendation for a belt change at a certain mileage point, resulting in valves crashing into the pistons in an interference- type engine. ere are a number of other potential causes, but you get the dri. Depending on the type and severity of the damage, you may advise the customer that the only practical option, based on both time and money, is to simply replace the engine short block or long block. From a standpoint of time, it's likely faster to purchase a new or reman engine, as opposed to having the original engine locally rebuilt. Aer spending a considerable amount of shop labor time to remove the original engine and to install and complete the assembly of the fresh engine, obviously you want to avoid any problems that could damage the new engine. Several aspects of the job involve proper plan- ning. If the engine is outfitted with a remote engine oil cooler, and if you suspect that debris may have entered the cooler (dirt, grit, bearing particles, sludge, etc.), don't assume that you can reconnect that cooler. It's best to replace the cooler and either flush or replace the cooler lines. If contaminants entered the cooler, it will be next to impossible to properly flush the cool- er, so don't even waste your time. Just replace it. Another thing to consider is engine oil. In my opinion, and in the opinion of most engine builders, you should never start a fresh engine with a full-synthetic oil, because a synthetic oil may be too slippery to allow the piston rings to properly seat in the cylinder bores. Use a petroleum-based engine oil for ring break-in, followed by draining and refilling with the specified oil for that particular engine. If you're dealing with an older engine that features flat- tappet liers, it is absolutely imperative to use a break-in oil (or break-in additive) that features Pre-oiling any engine is a relatively simple task, requiring a readily available pressurized pre-oiling canister. Aluminum is preferred to avoid potential internal rust buildup that can occur with a steel tank.

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